Adjusting the saddle: How it works

As one of three contact points, the saddle plays a decisive role in riding comfort and optimal power development. When adjusted correctly, it helps prevent saddle sores and even knee or hip problems. We will show you what you need to consider with the basic saddle settings.

• Hex key set
• Torque wrench incl. bits
• String for a plumb bob
• Spirit level (optional)

• Find a wall to lean against or someone to help you. Put on your cycling shoes, get on your bike, and place your heel on the pedal. When the pedal is at the bottom, your knee should be almost fully extended but still slightly bent.
• Get off the bike and adjust the saddle to the right height. To do this, loosen the clamping screw on the frame by turning it counterclockwise and adjust the seat post up or down. Then retighten the clamping screw to the specified torque.
• Test the new setting as described above with both pedals. Make sure your hips stay straight and that you don't slide from side to side on the saddle. Finally, check whether the normal foot position (ball of the foot over the pedal axle) also feels natural, and repeat the adjustment process if necessary.

• Take a string and attach a plumb bob or one of the hex wrenches to it.
• Sit on the bike, place your feet in the normal position on the pedals, and align the right pedal forward, parallel to the ground.
• Hold the plumb bob so that the string touches the centre of the pedal axle. At the top, the string should now run roughly behind the kneecap.
• To adjust the vertical position of the saddle, loosen the screw(s) at the top of the seat post and move the saddle forward or backward. It helps to gently wiggle the saddle nose from side to side. Then retighten the screw(s) to the specified torque.

• Adjusting the saddle angle allows you to optimise your riding position to prevent pressure points or slipping.
• Here, too, start by loosening the screw(s) at the top of the seat post. The basic setting should result in a horizontal line from the front to the rear contact points. You can make a visual estimate or use a spirit level.
• To reduce pressure on the nose of the saddle, you can tilt it slightly downward. However, it shouldn't be more than about 3–4 degrees; otherwise, you'll slide forward while riding, which will require corrective movements and increase the pressure again.
• Note that the horizontal adjustment applies to straight saddles. Exceptions apply, for example, to step saddles.

• You should consider all the settings described here merely as starting points, which may differ from the optimal settings depending on frame geometry, saddle model, crank length, body height, and body proportions. This applies in particular to the knee plumb method, which often provides a suitable result, but not always.
• What’s important is that you feel comfortable while riding. Go for a few rides, let your body get used to the bike and saddle, and adjust the settings if necessary. It is normal to feel some initial pressure on the sit bones when using a new saddle or if you are an untrained rider. This should get better over time. Tingling, numbness, or persistent pressure pain, on the other hand, require corrections.

This guide cannot replace a professional bike fitting. If you experience persistent discomfort such as pressure points, numbness, or pain despite trying different saddle settings, you should seek advice. Replacing the saddle can help, as can adjusting the other contact points (handlebar/stem, crankset/pedals).