Adjusting the handlebar: 3 steps to finding the right grip

When making adjustments, the handlebar is often left out. Yet, even small adjustments can help to noticeably improve ergonomics. Here you can find out how to optimise comfort and safety and reduce the risk of discomfort – in three simple steps.

• Hex key set
• Torque wrench incl. bits
• Spirit level (optional)

• Loosen the screws for the handlebar clamp on the stem. Adjust the angle of the handlebar so that your wrists are neither overextended nor unnaturally bent when gripping the hoods. An imaginary line connecting the upper handlebar and the grip surface of the hoods should be as horizontal as possible.
• Looking at the drops can also help with alignment. Many handlebars are designed so that the cut surfaces for the handlebar plugs are correctly aligned at a 90° angle to the ground.
• If a satisfactory grip position cannot be achieved, the position of the hoods may also need to be adjusted (see step 2). Important: Do not tilt the handlebar too far upwards in order to achieve a more upright posture. If you are sitting too stretched out, you should counteract this with a shorter and/or angled stem.
• Tighten the handlebar clamp on the stem to the required torque again. Make sure that one side (top or bottom) of your stem is mounted without a gap (no gap mark).

• Usually, you don’t need to adjust the position of the shift/brake levers. However, minor adjustments to your natural hand position may also be helpful here. For larger adjustments, the handlebar tape may need to be rewound.
• In order to expose the clamping screws on your shift/brake levers, first flip the underside of the lever hoods upwards. Then loosen the large screw for the handlebar clamp with a suitable wrench. Its position varies depending on the manufacturer and model.
• The hoods should be tilted horizontally as described in step 1. Their lateral tilt primarily depends on the curve of the handlebar, so that they are approximately in line with the drops. This tilt is usually more pronounced with gravel handlebars. If it is more comfortable for you, you can turn the hoods slightly outwards or inwards.
• After adjustment, retighten the clamping screw to the required torque (usually printed/embossed). Then fold the lever hoods back down again.

• Many brake lever models allow you to adjust the lever reach to better suit your hand size.
• The adjustment screw is usually located behind the brake lever and can be accessed from below using a 2 mm or 2.5 mm hex wrench. In some cases, it is also positioned elsewhere, e.g., at the side of the brake lever or on the top of the hoods. Please refer to the manual of your shift/brake levers.
• By turning the screw in or out, you can now reduce or increase the reach within certain limits. Adjust them so that you can comfortably reach the brake levers from the drops.
• ATTENTION: Position the brake levers only close enough to the handlebar so that you can still pull them all the way to achieve full braking power. If the levers touch the handlebar beforehand, you must increase the lever reach or bleed the brakes. Some brakes also allow additional adjustment of the free stroke so that they engage earlier.

This guide cannot replace professional bike fitting. If you experience persistent discomfort such as pressure points, numbness, or pain despite trying different settings, you should seek advice. Replacing the handlebar or stem can help, as can adjusting other contact points (saddle/seat post, cranks/pedals).